Deck Builder FAQs

If you are constructing a new deck on your house, you will almost always need a county permit if the new deck is more than 12 inches above grade. If the deck is less than 12 inches above grade, you do not need a county permit since it is considered a patio rather than a deck. As these regulations change from time to time, always verify with your local permit and inspection office.

In general, you’ll need a copy of your property plat, which clearly illustrates the home and its placement in relation to the property boundaries. Indicate on the plat the location of the new deck on the property. You will also need to fill out a permission application, and there is a county cost involved. You will also need a scale design of the deck (typically to 14 of an inch equaling one foot) that clearly illustrates the deck’s dimensions, footer size and depth, beam size, joist size and spacing, decking material to be used, railing system, and staircase position, if any. Your county property tax account number will aid in the permission procedure. When creating your new deck, make sure you remain within any set back restrictions and construction limitation lines that should be clearly noted on your property plat.

Landscaping Vancouver should be contacted whenever you dig. Always prioritize safety. We are obligated by law to contact Landscaping Vancouver if we are building the deck for you. Remember that Landscaping Vancouver only designates public utilities such as gas, electricity, phone, and cable television. If you have private connections, such as electric to your bug zapper, or a well, septic tank, or sprinkler system, these are not identified by Landscaping Vancouver, and it is the customer’s responsibility to tell us of the approximate position of subterranean impediments. We shall do everything feasible to avoid causing harm to private utilities. Landscaping Vancouver Deck and Fence cannot be held liable for damage to private subterranean impediments.

Yes, in order to construct fence in Vancouver, any contractor in British Columbia must obtain a Vancouver Home Improvement License (NOT A CONTRACTORS LICENSE). They should also have general liability insurance and workers compensation to protect both you and your contractor from responsibility. If you request it, any licensed home improvement contractor should happily supply you with a copy of their home improvement license as well as a certificate of general liability and workers compensation insurance.

The new pressure-treated southern yellow pine is known as ACQ. ACQ is an abbreviation for Alkaline Copper Quat, which superseded the former CCA, which stood for Chromated Copper Arsenate, in 2002. It’s meant to be better for the environment, but it doesn’t seem to be. (I suppose we’ll find out.) The majority of deck framing used now is #2 grade southern yellow wood. If you want to spend a little extra money, you may improve the frame to a #1 grade. #1 grade timber has a somewhat nicer look, and you may or may not perceive the benefit in upgrading. We can confidently state that 99 percent of our clients are satisfied with the #2 grade choice.

When utilizing any kind of heat source on your new deck or screen porch, use extreme care. When grilling or using a patio heater, for example, you should keep a safe distance from any railings, houses, or other vertical or horizontal structures that may come into contact with the heating element. Some grills and patio heaters can reach temperatures in excess of 800 degrees, which can cause severe damage to any structure. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines when determining how close a heat source should be to an existing building. Never leave a heat source unattended, and always ensure that adequate maintenance is in place with any heat source you use. Remember that grease readily catches fire.

Grilling is one of the most prevalent causes of stains on any deck or patio surface. Grease is a difficult stain to remove and, if not removed quickly, may permanently discolor any decking surface. It is advisable to use a grilling mat, which can be acquired at any hardware shop or ordered online. If you do spill that freshly cooked cheeseburger on your deck, make sure the grease patch is cleaned up right away; often, any household degreaser may be used; just consult the maker of your specific decking product for cleaning tips and techniques.

When utilizing any kind of heat source on your new deck or screen porch, use extreme care. When grilling or using a patio heater, for example, you should keep a safe distance from any railings, houses, or other vertical or horizontal structures that may come into contact with the heating element. Some grills and patio heaters can reach temperatures in excess of 800 degrees, which can cause severe damage to any structure. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines when determining how close a heat source should be to an existing building. Never leave a heat source unattended, and always ensure that adequate maintenance is in place with any heat source you use. Remember that grease readily catches fire.

Cutting your grass at the proper height — three inches is suggested — will cause less harm to your grass and minimize any stress that might adversely effect your yard. Your lawn will be healthier with optimum height and alternate cutting patterns, which provides for shade, inhibits weed development, and protects the grass from insect damage.

This is an excellent question, and we are often asked it. We usually propose a back beam when we go out to design and estimate a new deck project if we are unsure how the original residence was constructed and how the deck will be joined to the dwelling. This implies that most older houses (say, 10 years or older) have what is known as a “solid ban board” on the house, which might be a double 28 or a double 210, depending on how the house was originally constructed. However, in today’s new housing market, the majority of the joists used in framing are either a web floor truss system or a TGI floor truss system, which makes it impossible to correctly tie the decking’s ledger board to the house, and in all situations, a back beam is required. Remember, you don’t want to be in the headlines because your deck collapsed, or worse, you don’t want to injure or maybe kill yourself, friends, or family. ALWAYS PUT SAFETY FIRST!

We propose a 3′′ ring shank nail suitable for the new pressure treated ACQ pine for pressure treated southern yellow pine decking. Screws, on the other hand, are more durable but need more time to install. If you use the EB-TY biscuits and anywhere you need to use a screw, put the screw into the material and fill the screw hole with an IPE plug. This approach gives IPE decking a great clean appearance. The same thing should be done with mahogany decking. Most composite decking manufacturers have their own connection technique, which should be specified in their installation instructions. Most are screw down, while others are clip down, such as proper deck, which provides the appearance of concealed fasteners. Vinyl and plastic decking have their own suggested attaching techniques, such as Veka decking. This may be secured using color-matched screws or deck master or attach master deck clips. Plastic decking, such as Four Seasons or Trimax decking, has its own clip system (with concealed fasteners) for connecting to the joists.

All hardware, including nails, screws, joist hangers, lag bolts, carriage bolts, and other fasteners, should be ACQ certified. What this means is all galvanized hardware needs to be triple galvanized coated with zinc or stainless steel which can get very expensive. Simply examine the manufacturer’s labeling to ensure that the fasteners you’re using fit the new ACQ standards. It is always better to be safe than sorry.

It is natural for composite decking materials to fade with time (usually 15 to 20% of their original color). This is a regular component of the weathering process for composite decking. Staining has always been a problem with composite decking, but most manufacturers include maintenance and cleaning instructions on their websites.

Let us offer you a crash course in chemistry. Everyone refers to pressure treated southern yellow pine as just pressure treated lumber. It is mostly cultivated in the southern United States and is pressure treated to help minimize termite infestation, rot, and decay. It also has a lifetime manufacturer’s guarantee against rot and termite infestation. The chemicals used to treat the timber are known as Alkaline Copper Quat (ACQ). Since the government outlawed the use of CCA in 2003, these are the new preservatives that have been employed. CCA is an abbreviation for Chromated Copper Arsenate. The new pressure-treated timber is supposed to be healthier for the environment and people, but it doesn’t sound like it.

The pace at which the moisture content in the lumber is being released from the lumber itself produces the warping, cracking, twisting, and bending, and the wood fibers inside the lumber can’t keep up with the rate at which the moisture is being released. This is what creates dimensional instability in the timber. This is a natural phenomenon that occurs during the drying process of timber. It does not imply that you have faulty stuff. It’s just the nature of the stuff we’re working with. If a firm or contractor assures you that their southern yellow pine material will not warp, crack, twist, or split, chances are they are lying to you. A good wood sealer applied to the material, on the other hand, will greatly minimize the degree of dimensional instability in the product; it will not eradicate it entirely, but it will significantly assist. Don’t be alarmed; southern yellow pine is still one of the most commonly used wood fencing/decking products on the market today, but facts are facts, and every consumer should be properly advised in order for the consumer to make an educated decision about what material to use for their outdoor project.

Composite decking is made from a blend of plastic and wood fibers and is designed to appear like genuine wood decking. Composite decking components are often made from recycled resources. There are no preservation chemicals used in the production process, and you avoid the splinters that occur with standard timber decks.

The durability of composite decking is well recognized. Composite decking is resistant to rotting, deterioration, and termite damage because the plastic shields the wood fibers from the environment. It will also not fade or wear out as a result of frequent exposure to sunlight and cold temperatures. Composite decking is often backed by guarantees ranging from 10 to 25 years, ensuring that it will not decay or suffer structural damage under regular residential settings.

Solid boards have a more lumber-like appearance and, as the name implies, are solid all the way through. Hollow boards have ribbed cores and seem somewhat more man-made. Both board types give a reliable and high-quality deck.

The edges of grooved and ungrooved boards vary, which affects installation. Grooved boards have a slot or channel around the edge and are attached using concealed deck fasteners rather than visible nails. Ungrooved boards have solid edges and are attached using nails bored through the board’s top.

Composite decks need less upkeep. Clear away any debris such as leaves, dirt, and dust on a regular basis. Clean your deck thoroughly at least twice a year using a brush, hose, and mild home cleanser. Power washers should not be used since they may harm composite decks. Composite decking, unlike hardwood decks, does not need staining, waterproofing, or sealing.

Painting or staining composite decking is not recommended by experts since the material is coated with a color that will stay as long as your deck. If you want to paint or stain your composite deck, it will need regular care, similar to that of hardwood decks.

The span between joists should be 12 to 16 inches for perpendicular applications. For a durable and stable deck, experts suggest spans of 16 inches. A maximum of 12 inches on center is recommended when installing at a 45-degree angle.

Composite decking does not need any special equipment to install, but conventional woodworking tools are required for cutting and construction. Because composite decking materials cut like wood, you may install them with a circle saw or a miter saw. This form of decking, like genuine wood, takes nails and screws.

The precise quantity of expansion and contraction of composite decking relies on the difference between the temperature during installation and the highest temperature in your location. Allow 3/16-inch to 1/4-inch spaces between boards to allow for expansion and contraction as well as natural drainage of dirt and water.