Lawn Care FAQs

Sprinkler heads are often broken by lawn equipment. Irrigation systems, like most other systems on your property, need regular maintenance. When the earth changes and puts the heads into a more dangerous position than when they were initially placed, and when the spring-loaded sprinkler head wears out, these are the two most prevalent causes of irrigation damage. Both of these problems may be seen in even the most pristine areas. Don’t be concerned if your sprinkler head has broken! All you have to do is mark the damaged head with anything from an irrigation flag to a chopstick, then call our office and we will come out straight away to fix it. You are not required to be present.

Our consumers expect us to maintain their grass mowed on time as a professional lawn care service. This necessitates making sound decisions on when to postpone mowing. During the months when your grass is actively growing, it is preferable for us to come out and mow the lawn wet rather than skip the lawn and risk it lasting several weeks without a trim. Ruts may form in your grass as a result of the lawn being damp when mowed. These ruts are nearly often transient and will heal themselves once the grass dries down.

If your grass is too wet to be mowed on your planned day, please notify us immediately and we will gladly suspend your service. We try our best to make the best option for our customers, but due to the subjective nature of this sort of circumstance, it might be difficult to get it right every time for each client’s preferences.

The majority of lawns in British Columbia are Bermuda or St. Augustine grass. Neither of these grasses need bagging during spring, summer, or autumn cutting. We utilize mulching mowers, which recycle the clippings back into the grass and help the soil retain nutrients. We bag all lawns we mow from December to February each year to ensure that we pick up any dead thatch that has accumulated throughout the year. During certain months, there is no extra charge for bagging. Zoysia grass, which is less frequent in British Columbia, must be bagged in order to look its best. If you do have Zoysiagrass, please tell our office and we will make sure to bag it. We offer to bag any sort of grass for a fee, but we do not suggest it.

We choose what height to trim your lawn by a variety of criteria, the most prevalent of which being the time of year. We will mow your grass lower when we start mowing it in the spring. In order to battle the heat, your grass should be trimmed taller as the temperatures rise. We mow your lawn quite high throughout the hot summer months to keep it as thick and green as possible. As the weather cools down in the autumn, we’ll start cutting the grass a bit shorter each week. Please call our office if you want your grass cut higher or shorter at any time, and we will do our best to trim your lawn at the height you like. This might be more difficult for bi-weekly trims at certain periods of the year.

Please contact our office as soon as possible. Please notify us immediately if you see any possible harm caused by our mowing teams. We have suppliers and staff people on standby to tackle these problems as soon as they arise. Please do not contact a third-party repair company before contacting us.

Fence damage is quite prevalent. Many fences are not designed with grass mowing in mind. If your fence has pickets with grass running along them rather than a runner, trimmer line from the weed eater is extremely likely to cause a line and eventually a depression in the fence pickets that worsens with time. If there is no runner at the bottom of the fence, this is much more probable with a board on board fence.

Gates are the most often damaged location. If you have any questions regarding your fence or potential damage, please call our office as soon as possible and we will send someone out to examine the damage and schedule any necessary repairs.

We utilize high-quality commercial lawn mowers. These are the best mowers available and often cost 2-3 times what an ordinary mower does. These mowers are self-propelled and designed to travel considerably quicker than a traditional walk behind mower. The secret is to keep the blades nice and sharp. That is why we replace the blade with a new, sharp one every day. This is not a regular occurrence.

Scalping is important in certain circumstances, but in most cases, it is a lot of labor for very little reward. If your lawn is in good condition, it should just need a little scalp, which is simply clipping the grass.

We suggest weekly mowing throughout the months when your grass is actively expanding (April-October). A grass mowed every two weeks grows twice as fast as a lawn mowed weekly. We take longer since there is more grass to cut.

Weeds grow in the soil and are carried by the wind and animals. The number of weeds that appear on a land is affected by hot weather and heavy rain. Weeds may be treated after they emerge from the earth. Some weeds are stubborn and must be treated numerous times.

Mushrooms on your lawn indicate that it is healthy, which is a positive thing. We do not provide mushroom treatments. You may either pluck and dump them or mow the grass as usual.

The ideal lawn cutting height is 3-3.5 inches. Taller grass can withstand the impacts of heat and drought better. Most significantly, higher grass offers shade at ground level, preventing weed growth. As a consequence, less chemical weed management is necessary

Always trim no more than one-third of the whole height. This is just another reason why appropriate height is critical. After the strong spring growth, pruning to 3 inches establishes the presidency for the season. Weekly mowing will be appropriate after the spring growth has halted and the first mow has been completed.

Only water your yard during times of drought. If your grass needs watering, you will see that the blades fold in half to conserve water. Footprints will be seen after walking on the grass at this stage. If your lawn exhibits these symptoms, water thoroughly once or twice a week for a maximum of one inch. Watering time should be between 15 and 30 minutes. A rain gauge may assist in ensuring that the correct quantity is provided. Watering in the early morning between 6:00 and 10:00 a.m. is ideal since damp grass in the hot afternoon heat might burn. Excess water evaporates early in the morning, preventing mildew and fungal development.

This is one of the most effective, but underused, grass treatments. Top dressing and over-seeding are finished by putting a 12 inch layer of top dressing soil over the lawn, followed by grass seed. This thickens the grass and inhibits the growth of weeds. As it makes its way down to the roots, the top garment also functions as fertilizer. Following the completion of this procedure, it is essential to adhere to a tight watering plan until the grass germinates and develops to a height of 4 or 5 inches. Because immature grass stems are susceptible to dehydration, the seeds must remain wet and cannot dehydrate.

Thatch is made up of un-decomposed stems and roots that accumulate near the soil’s surface. Thatch formation occurs when grass generates organic material quicker than it can be broken down. For thatch control, core aeration is a vital preventive maintenance procedure. Core aeration on a regular basis reduces compaction and enhances air circulation into soils. A dethatching machine or specialized rake may also be used to remove thatch.

Chemical fertilizers are a “quick fix.” They provide the nutrients required for grass, but at the price of our water, soil, and the biological ecology inside the soil. Organic fertilizers are manufactured from natural elements and break down slowly to provide your grass with long-lasting nutrition. Organic fertilizers are a superior option all around.

Beneficial Nematodes exist naturally in soil and are utilized to control soil pest insects while they are larvae. These nematodes are capable of infecting around 200 pest insect species from 100 insect groups. They prey on a variety of insects, including fruit flies, leaf miners, white grubs, fleas, ticks, and Japanese beetles. Beneficial nematodes target only soil-dwelling insects and ignore plants and earthworms.